Tuesday 5th March 2019
The morning was clear and calm but with the forecast for rain later.
We deliberated as to the plan and decided to wind at Fazeley Junction, go back
up Glascote Locks and moor just above them to explore Tamworth.
This we duly did and were so grateful for the decision. We found
Tamworth to be a delightful, and a surprising place, certainly well beyond what
we expected. The town is bathed in history. An ancient town, the more so for
having, coincidently, just finished watching “The Last Kingdom”, a factual
drama set in the Viking era that mentions many characters’ involved with
Tamworth’s past.
Tamworth was the Capital of the Kingdom of Mercia. We had visited
Repton in Derbyshire last August and it too, claims to be the Historic Capital of
Mercia. In times before a sizeable civil service, the “capital” was effectively
where the King was at any given time. However, King Offa (757-796), of Offa’s
Dyke fame, favoured Tamworth which then remained the capital.
Mercia was overrun by the Vikings, the eastern part becoming part of
the Danelaw. Alfred the Great, King of Wessex, had a vision of uniting the
Kingdoms of Britain to form a united England. His daughter, Ethelflaed, married
the King of Mercia and she assumed power when her husband became ill and became
known as “The Lady of Mercia”. She drove the Danes from the Kingdom and, along
with her brother, King Edward the Elder, followed their father’s vision of
uniting England.
Tamworth was pivotal to many of these events.
The Danelaw was the part of England ruled by the Danes and covered
mainly the north and east of the country. The Coventry Canal largely follows
the Danelaw border in this area. To the south, village names are all English –
Warton, Alvecote, Grendon, Sheepy while only a few miles to the north the names
are often Viking – Beeby, Barkby, Sileby, Appleby.
The mooring might not have seemed as good as at the aqueduct, the
towpath was muddy and there were many more people walking past the boat, but it
did seem more comfortable for some reason.
The walk into town only took about 10 minutes. There was a large street
market on which was a bonus, we do enjoy the markets. We generally walked
around the town centre, admiring the different buildings and reading various
interpretation boards as we tend to. There is a good selection of shops and overall,
a nice feel to the place.
There are Almshouses, donated by Thomas Guy who was elected MP for
Tamworth six times from 1675 to 1707 when he lost the election. He thought the
inhabitants of the town were ungrateful for all he had done and so moved to
London where he founded Guy’s Hospital.
Tamworth Theatre, built in the 18th century, is a lovely building.
It has had numerous uses throughout its time and is now the Register Office.
Tamworth was originally a town of two halves, one half in
Staffordshire and the other in Warwickshire and as such, had two town halls.
This was rectified in 1701 when Thomas Guy had the Town Hall that survives
today, built. It is modelled on a Medieval Town Hall - Market and the ground
floor area, between the columns, is still used as part of the market. The cupola
tower mounted on top of the Town Hall has a distinct lean to it.
We walked through the Castle Gardens with its Victorian Bandstand and looking
very colourful with thousands of primulas in the various garden plots and the
promise of more to come. The River Anker flows into the River Tame here. The
Tame has its source in Birmingham and flows into the River Trent at Alrewas. We
should see a lot of the Tame when we eventually go through Birmingham.
Market Street, Tamworth
Market Street, Tamworth
Tamworth Town
Hall
Thomas Guy’s Almshouses
Unfortunately, Tamworth Castle is closed to the public during the
winter except at weekends. We walked up the steps of the castle mound. The
views are impressive from here. The castle is a formidable Norman fort built on
the mound that was built for the defence of Tamworth by Ethelfleda during the
Viking era.
Tamworth Castle and
Mound
We then walked up to visit what we considered to be the jewel in the
crown, Tamworth’s St. Editha’s Parish Church. The building, along with the
castle, dominates the town and can be seen for many miles. Entering through the
West Porch, with the Tower above, you are faced with a wooden framed, glass
partition. It is a dramatic entrance. However, once through the partition we
were awestruck by the magnificence, the splendour and the scale of the place.
And yet it is only a church. We were
given a wonderful welcome and were allowed to take Harvey inside. Apparently
the vicar takes his own dog to the church services.
Although the church is built on the site of earlier churches, the original
parts of the present church date from the 12th century. There are
many interesting artefacts inside. Tombs and effigies from the early 14th
century, many splendid stained glass windows and very well preserved Norman
arches and stonework.
There was a lady, a Church Guide, who showed us down into the Crypt.
The ceiling has a ribbed construction with a number of Medieval gravestone and
coffin lids fitted into it. From the reign of Elizabeth I until 1868 it was
used as a charnel house were bones were placed although it is believed there
were also many victims of the Plague buried here. A Latin inscription was found
on one of the walls, now preserved behind a sheet of Perspex. Today it is used
as a warm area and café for the homeless.
We spoke with the Guide’s husband and mentioned to him that Brenda’s
cousin is a church chorister and organist. He told us that the organ that made
in 1927 by Harrison and Harrison of London at the cost of £4,776. Apparently,
Harrison’s are very famous organ makers. The organ in Tamworth is the same as that
in Westminster Abbey. We were truly delighted when he offered to play for us, a
selection of Bach’s Preludes and Fugues. It was very moving. When we left the
church he was playing Hubert Parry’s “Jerusalem”.
We had really enjoyed our exploration of Tamworth. When Brenda checked
her fit-bit we had walked 5½ miles. No wonder Harvey is so tired, he
only has short legs.
Unusually, I made dinner. I don’t normally cook other than things I
know and always follow a menu, with that in one hand and a glass of something
in the other. If the menu says ¼lb or 10 minutes, then that it was it
gets. To the letter. I find it all very stressful. However, it was a success and
Brenda was impressed.
Day Total: 2 locks; 2 miles; 0 Tunnels; 0 Swing Bridges; 0 Boat Lift;
engine running hours 1.1
Overall Total: 346 locks; 747 miles; 32 tunnels; 7 Swing Bridges; 2
Boat Lifts; engine running hours 473.8
Sounds lovely , who knew Tamworth was so nice ?
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